At (or Near) Wholesale Prices: Happy Product - Sad Box >
Give Us A Call

10am - 4pm CST
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 30

Thread: Laser Cut Telemaster Build Helps, Hints and addendum's

  1. #1

    Laser Cut Senior Telemaster Build Helps, Hints and addendum's

    Hello all,
    I will be beginning the build of laser cut Senior Telemaster from Hobby-Lobby.
    To help others and to avoid building mishaps, I will be posting helps tips and addendum's to the plans that are shipped with the kit. (others can learn from my mistakes).
    I will post pictures and impressions of the process. As an experienced builder I plan to take on this build as a novice to check the overall instructions.
    All questions are welcomed and I will do my best to help anyone.
    Because this is a build, I intend to take my time and check every step. Not going for speed here.
    Last edited by asnowman; 10-31-2012 at 12:53 PM.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by rodsmith123 View Post
    Which Telemaster are you building? The 40 size or Senior Telemaster. Thanks
    Sorry rodsmith123, You are correct, there is more than one.... I will be building the Senior Telemaster. I have also read your posts and will be incorperating some of your modifications.

    Changed the title to reflect the changes.
    Last edited by asnowman; 10-31-2012 at 12:54 PM.

  3. #3

    Wing build correction

    Step 14 correction.
    Loose fit all ribs into there appropriate notches
    in LEP. Assure that all ribs are bottomed in their
    respective notches before applying glue.
    At this point make sure that WBS is placed between
    W5 and W6 before gluing these ribs in place,

    then use thin CA to glue ribs in and
    use the Building Square to insure that each rib
    is at 90 to the bench. Glue them at LEP, the bottom
    spar and TEP. Ribs W2 and W3 will also be
    glued to BSA. NOTE: Ribs W2 through W6
    must be in their correct locations or you will
    not be able to insert the wing bar later. They
    look very similar however the butterfly opening
    is cut to accommodate the dihedral angle
    and will not line up if out of sequence.

    All steps up to this point are well written and illustrated. The online videos are a real help as well.
    Last edited by asnowman; 11-01-2012 at 02:32 AM.

  4. #4

    Step 16 correction

    Step 16 Correction
    Plane or sand a slight bevel on the bottom of the wing tip (WT)
    to increase glue land. Use the 45 gusset (WTG) to get the correct
    angle on it and glue it at the leading and trailing edge as well as
    the gusset. Align the gusset on center with the spar. Glue in a 1
    piece of 1 triangle stock at the leading edge and a 1 piece of
    triangle stock at the trailing edge. Cut and glue pieces of 3/8
    triangle stock (1/4" Stock supplied in the kit) to W14 and WT
    between the leading edge and the
    gusset and between the gusset and the trailing edge. Use a razor
    plane to plane the leading edge and trailing edge triangle stock
    filler pieces to contour with W15 and WT. Use a straight edge
    across the top of W14 and W15 to help align the top of WT.
    Place the top spar in position in the notches
    provided and mark the location of the W1
    assembly. Trim the spar off at this line then
    place the spar in position and use aliphatic
    resin to glue in the top spar. Weight it to assure
    it remains bottomed in the rib notches
    until cured.

    This is correct with the picture that applies to this step. I had some 3/8" triangle stock on hand and used that instead.

  5. #5

    Wing Assembly Underway

    I am happy to find that all the parts of the wing fit very well.
    If they are built in reference to the plans, the wing will be perfectly straight and true.
    Also, I have used the Blue Tape Method to shape the leading and trailing edge.
    This allows the surfaces to be sanded and lets you know when to stop sanding, protecting the ribs from over sanding.
    (Thanks to all the builders that shared this very nice tip)

    I have also found that the leading edge sheeting was not as wide as the plans called for.
    Also, my local hobby shop did not have any balsa that was 48" long.
    If you find yourself in this situation you can edge glue the 3/32"x4"x48" piece with the larger left over edge of sheet 36 and use 38 for the other wing. Be sure to square up the sheets before you begin to sheet the wing.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0434.JPG   IMG_0435.JPG   IMG_0436.JPG  

    Last edited by asnowman; 11-03-2012 at 01:15 PM.

  6. #6

    I have used the Blue Tape Method to shape the leading and trailing edge.

    Could you please explain what the Blue Tape method is for your leading and trailing edge treatment. A novice would not have an idea why or how it is used to shape.


    I think your explainations are very good and are helping those build without mistakes, keep up the good work

    Last edited by Colorado kid; 11-03-2012 at 05:27 PM.

  7. #7

    Wing leading edge and trailing edge Blue Tape Method

    The blue tape method that I use is to cover the ribs or any adjoining surface with blue masking tape. Ordinary masking tape will work, but the blue tape is easier to see when you have begun to sand the tape.

    Apply tape to all of the ribs where they meet the trailing edge and the leading edges, a small piece with suffice.
    The tape will allow you to sand the adjoining surface while protecting the rib from being sanded, just make sure that you don't sand through the surface of the tape. If you begin to sand through you are at the correct height to blend the two surfaces together. The most clear sign is that there will be blue powder in the dust.
    This allows for more control and protects the ribs from being sanded. Because of the cutting accuracy of the ribs they need to be protected so that you don't change the airfoil of the wing. After you finish sanding you can remove all of the pieces of tape and viola.

    The leading edge of the Senior Telemaster Laser Cut Kit has to be sanded down quite a bit, checking the progress with a straight edged often will ensure better success. The trailing edge requires very little sanding, but the blue tape should still be used to protect the ribs.

    You can see in the pictures that a straight edge is used to keep the profile of the ribs that should match the leading edge. Note the difference between the unfinished edge and the finished edge. Use this same method for the trailing edge.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0437.JPG   IMG_0438.JPG   IMG_0440.JPG  

  8. #8

    Wing Sheer Webbing

    Note that the sheer webbing does not touch each rib and should be centered between the ribs. Make sure that the top of the sheer webbing is level to the top of each rib before gluing down.

    Step 20.
    Install and glue 3/32” sheer webs (WSW) to the front
    of the spars, make sure that the sheer webs
    are flush with the top of the ribs. Between W3
    and W4 use SW-W4, Between W2
    and W3 use SW-W4
    this sheer web must also
    be flush with the tops of the ribs.
    Also, the web between W3 and W4 must be trimmed to
    allow it to fit around the BSA.
    This will
    provide a ledge for installing the leading edge
    sheeting later.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0439.JPG  
    Last edited by asnowman; 11-04-2012 at 04:19 PM.

  9. #9

    Step 23 Correction

    Install and glue the trailing edge anti crush
    webbing between TEP and the top sheeting.
    The top sheeting is made from one of the 3/32"x4"x48"
    sheets that is cut into 2"X48"strips.

    Recess the webbing as required until it contacts
    both the top and bottom sheeting and
    then glue it in place.

  10. #10

    Wing leading edge sheeting

    The leading edge sheeting is supplied as twp (not sure what this was)????
    4” and one 3” 3/32” x 48” sheets. These must (No 3" sheets in the kit)
    be edge glued and then two 4-1/4” sheets cut
    from this assembly. Butt the straight edge of
    this sheet up against the top spar and use a
    piece of masking tape at each rib to hold it
    firmly against the spar. Using the tape as a
    hinge, swing the sheet back and apply a bead
    of aliphatic resin glue to the top spar and then
    bring the sheeting back down in to position.
    Let this glue cure before proceeding.

    This step was included because twp is not marked as such, I could not find it.
    If it is the 3/32"x4",48" sheet, the instructions are not clear on this.
    Refer to the other wing assembly post #6 for a fix that you can apply.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts