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Thread: Telemaster two piece wings information HELP

  1. #1
    Senior Member Jay Burkart's Avatar
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    Telemaster two piece wings information HELP

    Have any of your Master Telemaster builders done a T'master build yet with plug together wings?
    Something like a tube and rod joining system like the sailplane guys use,
    I sure could use some How To pictures to share with others wanting to do the same.

    I did it once a long time ago but didn't take detail and internal How to pics.

    Can someone help me?
    Thanks,
    Jay
    SAM Grand Champion 2004.07,10,12

  2. #2

    Re: Telemaster two piece wings information HELP

    Hi Jay

    I regret I can't send you any photographs as my camera won't talk to my computer at the moment but I have built a Senior Telemaster with a two-piece wing in the past, albeit with an early German inset aileron "barn door" wing rather than the Joe Bridi strip aileron wing as sold by Hobby-Lobby today. The principles are essentially the same however as you use rods in tubes. When I built my wing I used brass tube and steel rod. Others may prefer to use carbon fibre these days.

    You have three choices when building a Senior Telemaster two-piece wing:

    to build it with a flat wing
    to build it with a dihedral wing using bent rods and straight tubes
    to build it with a dihedral wing using straight rods and straight tubes

    1. To build a flat wing with rod and tube.

    (a). Select a suitable sized rod and tube. I used 3/16" (8 SWG) steel rod and brass tube but you could go much larger if you wanted to.

    (b). Decide how many wing ribs you want the tube to go through. I used just three but you could use more. We will use three wing ribs on each side in our example.

    (c). Collect six ribs and pin together so that they all line up tidily. These will be the centre ribs on each wing half and the next two ribs out from the centre ribs. Using a pillar drill or a steady hand drill two holes through all six ribs of a sufficient size to allow the tube to pass through the ribs. The position of the holes is not super critical. You could drill the front hole either just above the forward lower spar or between the spruce main spars. The rear hole should be about 70-80% of the wing chord back from the leading edge.

    (d). Cut the tubes to an appropriate length so that they will go through all three of the ribs; in the case of the early wing that was a minimum of 5.5 inches. Glue all of the ribs in place on the plan and then push the tubes through the ribs. Make sure they are all vertical. Apply glue to where the rods pass through the ribs. Add the upper spars. It's probably best to use slow setting epoxy as the glue. You may care to block in the tubes in between the ribs with scrap balsa wood block.

    (e). Cut the rods to an appropriate length, e.g, 11 inches in this case, insert the rods into the tubes and once the glue has dried whole assembly should just push together.


    2. To build a dihedral wing with bent rods and straight tubes.

    (a). Follow the process up to paragraph (d) above but instead of having all of the ribs vertical, incline the two centre ribs to allow for the dihedral ange as mentioned in paragraph 3 in the kit's instructions.

    (b). Take the two steel rods and bend them in a vice at their centre point to an angle of 3 degrees (2.8 degrees to be exact :shock: .) You should now have two steel rods bent to a very shallow V angle.

    (c.) Insert the rods into the wing halves and you should get a standard STM wing.

    The bend in the middle of the rod is a stress point but unless you're going to over-power you STM or fly it in an outrageously violent manner, this should not pose a problem especially if you use a strut or two struts to brace the wing.

    3. To build a dihedral wing with straight rods and straight tubes.

    (a). Collect the six ribs as in 1c but divide them into three pairs.

    (b). Drill the two centre ribs as per instructions in 1c.

    (c). Place the next two ribs, the second ribs, under the centre ribs and mark the position of the centre rib holes on the second ribs using a ball point pen or pencil.

    (d). Drill two holes 5/32" below the marked positions.

    (e). Place the centre ribs over the third ribs, mark the position of the centre rib holes on the third ribs as in 3c and drill two holes into each rib 11/32" below the marked position.

    (f.) Glue the ribs to the wing structure and push the tubes through. Glue where they touch the ribs. Block in if required. Cant the centre ribs to the recommended angle.


    The tubes will look as if they're sloping downwards but they will actually lift the wing tips.

    Whichever method you choose you may care to face the two centre ribs with plywood.

    Modellers who are more familiar with metric measurements may care to contact me and I will convert all of the above to metric measurements. If anyone would like to know how I came to these conclusions, I'll explain at a later date.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Jay Burkart's Avatar
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    Re: Telemaster two piece wings information HELP

    Thanks very much for the information.
    Sure wish you can put some pictures up on the forum.
    Jay
    SAM Grand Champion 2004.07,10,12

  4. #4

    Re: Telemaster two piece wings information HELP

    Making the wing two-piece is simply a matter of drilling two holes through six or more wing ribs then installing the appropriately sized rods and tubes.

    I will send you a picture when I can get my camera to talk to my computer. This is not a priority item at the moment: getting a proper job is!

    Finally, if a picture is worth a thousand words, how much are the pictures worth in the Senior Telemaster ARF instructions which deal with the fitting of the struts to the wing? :lol:

    Happy Landings

    DD

  5. #5

    Re: Telemaster two piece wings information HELP

    Quote Originally Posted by Telemaster Sales UK

    (snip)

    Finally, if a picture is worth a thousand words, how much are the pictures worth in the Senior Telemaster ARF instructions which deal with the fitting of the struts to the wing? :lol:

    (snip)
    DD
    I certainly had a few words to myself while trying to figure those struts out :o

    It really would be a great idea to add a little more text and some photos to help in that area. :!:

    Cliff

  6. #6
    Senior Member Jay Burkart's Avatar
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    Re: Telemaster two piece wings information HELP

    Thanks guys,
    Look forward to some photos we can have posted here.
    I will defer the clarification instructions and photos on the struts to M. Hines.

    Thanks,
    Jay
    SAM Grand Champion 2004.07,10,12

  7. #7

    Re: Telemaster two piece wings information HELP

    I always send out a note which I've drawn up called "Strutting My Stuff" with every STM I sell describing how I bolted the strut to the hardpoint using threaded rod.

  8. #8

    Re: Telemaster two piece wings information HELP

    Ok you wanted pictures! After spending most of yesterday afternoon and evening with a club mate who is much more knowledgeable (and enthusiastic!) about computers than I will ever be, my camera and computer will talk to each other.

    With the STM I'm building I plan to use standard dihedral of 3 inches (7.5cms) under each wing tip. I also tend to use straight carbon rod in straight carbon tube. To effect this, this is what I did.

    1. Select six ribs from the hardest balsa, pin them accurately together and drill a small hole of 1/16th inch (1.5mm) halfway between the spars and on the Joe Bridi wing about 4-5 inches (10-12cms) the distance is not critical, behind the first hole but on the same level. These we will call the pilot holes.

    The Karl-Heinz Denzin wing, which is what I'm building, has two sets of spars so with this wing I drilled the second pilot hole midway between the rear spars.

    At this stage you should have a block of six ribs pinned together with two pilot holes drilled through all six. See bottom picture. I have drawn a line on the rib to indicate where the pilot holes are located.

    2. Un-pin the ribs, select two and drill through pilot holes with a drill bit just large enough to allow the tube to pass through them. Mark each of these ribs with a "2" as these will be the second ribs out from the centre rib.

    Select a second pair of ribs and drill a similar hole 3/16 inch (about 5mm) higher than the pilot holes through both ribs. Mark these two as "1" for they will be the centre ribs.

    With the final pair of ribs drill a hole 3/16 inch lower than pilot holes in this pair. Mark these two as "3" for they will be third ribs out from the centre.

    You should now have two sets of ribs for each wing half. [b]The second picture shows one set of ribs. What looks like a very scruffy hole in one of the ribs is in fact the excess from a felt tip marker pen.

    3. Assemble the ribs to the wing structure and glue in place canting over the centre rib to allow for the dihedral. Slide the rods through and glue with epoxy. Support the tubes with scrap balsa block.

    See the top picture for details.

    I intend to fill all of the space between the wing spars with scrap balsa and to tie the wing spars together with plywood in the end.

    You could of course extend the tubes to the fourth and fifth ribs but I shan't be flying it too vigorously and I intend to fit struts.

    Hope this is helpful. Happy Landings Gentelmen.[attachment=0:3elpgrob]Carbon fibre tubes in place.jpg[/attachment:3elpgrob][attachment=1:3elpgrob]Tube Holes.jpg[/attachment:3elpgrob][attachment=2:3elpgrob]Pilot Holes.JPG[/attachment:3elpgrob]
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pilot Holes.JPG   Tube Holes.jpg   Carbon fibre tubes in place.jpg  


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